27 Sept, 2022
A quick trip to Paris at the weekend, a taster of what might be, was just what was needed. Paris really does have a certain je ne sais quoi, and here are my reflections on two days in Paris. How we got there. We travelled by Eurostar from St Pancras station in London to the Gare du Nord in Paris. Checking in, tickets scanned from our phones. Passport control and security was easy peasy. Allow yourself an hour and half (though it only took us twenty minutes in line to the waiting area), but allow a good 2 hours when coming back home from Paris ~ it took a long while to get checked in and everything. Check the Eurostar website for up to date travel details. I should add although we were prepared, we were not asked for our Covid status. Not sure if this is now the usual way, or a mistake, or the website had not been updated for information. Nevertheless, the journey was super fast, two and a quarter hours from city centre to city centre. Hotel. We book via Eurostar a train hotel package. Staying at a lovely hotel on Boulevard Montemarte, accessed via the beautiful Passage Jouffroy, in the 9th arrondissement, bordering on the 2nd arrondissement ~ perfect central location. We walked miles around the area, down to the Left Bank, each area having a different vibe. Paris really is a compact city, but don't try to see it all in a day or two! We deliberately chose not to book to visits this time to e.g. Eiffel Tower or the Louvre. Next time! French Architecture. French architecture is amazing, I don't even know where to start. Everywhere you look is beautiful and ornate, designed to bring you joy. Even doorways have a shabby chic-ness about them Cafe culture. Café culture is alive and well as we rested sore feet and watching the world go by. Coffee and pastries were delicious as were snacks. A Croque Monsieur at Cafe Zephyr took a cheese toastie to a new level. Menus are in french with english translation written underneath. Except Menu's are called 'la carte,' confusingly. Menu means something else apparently ~ think it's a meal offer from certain cafe's and Boulangeries. Accept your order as it comes, unless you're allergic to an ingredient. They really do know best and won't take kindly to being given 'orders.' Oh, and if you like ice in your drink you need to ask for it. We chose cafés and restaurants at random and found the locals were enjoying the food and ambiance too. A good sign. We found the waiters to be polite, friendly and helpful. Incredibly hard working, they managed Service with a smile without it all being a hassle. If you're unsure what to do initially, as the cafe's can look like organised chaos, take a seat and you will be served. The waiters seem to magically know you are there~they don't miss a thing. If a waiter is in the vicinity of a doorway, do know how to say hello in french and how to ask for a table ~ it will pay dividends and make your experience run smoothly. Once served, they will leave you alone (they are trained to do so), and will let you sit there without being hurried out. Oh, and it may take longer to be served than you might be used to ~ go with the flow, it's all part of the experience. You will need to catch the waiter's eye to ask for the bill. Know how to ask in french ~ l'addition s'il vous plait (sounds like ad-diss-e-on, run the syllables together). Or, miming the universal 'signing a cheque,' (not that cheques are used). We paid cash, but you can use a card. Tip culture is not a thing here ~ no working out 10 or 20 percent of the bill. A few coins is a nice gesture but not expected. The French and Speaking French. Listening to french voices and trying to hear what we could pick up and understand. I ought to say, Parisian's appear to be discrete and use their 'indoor voice' outside. The French do speak at a rate of knots. Tune in and listen for the key words to get the gist (if you're not fluent in French). Talking of communicating, even if you're hopeless at languages, it will help you considerably if you know the basic's. From our experience, they were delighted if we spoke a little french as it is seen as being polite and respectful ~ key factors in French culture. So, at the very least know how to say: Bonjour (Bon Soir of an evening) is the magic word ~ do not forget to say Bonjour before anything else and don't ignore if it is spoken to you, you need to reply with same ~ it really will help to smooth the way. Even entering shops expect to say Bonjour! S'il vous plait ~ formal french for please. Je voudrais ~ I would like...what ever it is, pointing at the menu or item in a shop. Je voudrais quelque chose ~ I would like something. Or you might say in a Patiserrie, "Je prende un croissant s'il vous plait." I'll take a croissant please. Not forgetting to say Bonjour first! I know I'm labouring it, but it is important. Merci / Merci beaucoup ~ thank you / thank you very much. Aurevoir ~ goodbye. You might hear added, bonne journée ~ have a good day, to which you can reply, "Et vous aussi," and you too. There's a lovely phrase you might hear while shopping, "Vous à trouve ton bonheur?" Have you found your happiness? The answer of course is Oui! Know how to count a little. There were only two of us, and entered a restaurant being able to say, "Bonjour, deux sur place, s'il vous plait," made our waiter smile, ushered us in with a huge smile and spoke to us in 'franglais.' They were delightful I must say. Parisian beauty. Parisian women have a natural beauty, believing skincare is more important than wearing a mask of make up ~ and it shows for they glowed! They wear style over fashion and look so put together ~ even teenagers. I suspect that considerable effort goes into looking effortless. Parisian men looked groomed and put together too, wearing a jacket and scarf just so. There has been much said about how the French stay slim, despite eating all the good food, including cheese, carbs and delicious pastries. They just don't eat 'goodies' every day. The other noticeable thing is, generally speaking, eating on the street or snacking seems to be a no-no. Maybe that is their secret. And wearing 'flats,' walking everywhere. Madame. Being called "Madame," was wonderful and an unexpected joy! It was polite and respectful, and made my day. In fact, we found Parisian's to be polite and not grumpy at all. I saw no evidence of women being harassed or stared at. Parisian smells. Paris smells nice! Perfumes, pastries, bread and occasionally cigar smoke. It did not smell of piss. Are men pissing in public a thing of the past. I hope so! Noisy! Paris is noisy though. Stereotypical sounds of scooters, vehicle horns and police sirens. The Police were visible throughout the City ~ not a bad thing. Smartly dressed and looked the business. You wouldn't want to argue with them. Paris Traffic. I'm sure there are rules of the road in Paris but you'd be hard pressed to know what they are. Traffic appears chaotic and every one for themselves. Zig zagging from lane to lane, however it does seem to work. Paris appears to have lots of 'one ways,' and narrow streets ~ apart from the well known Boulevards. Worth noting that if the light is green for pedestrians to cross the road, vehicles can still catch you out ~ they don't seem to stop pedestrian crossings. The Metro. The Metro (underground) system was easy to use and navigate. Quick, efficient and clean. 1.90 euro for all journey's and use within an hour and a half, I believe, which is long enough to get from A to B. From our experience you need to pay by card. Oh, and be aware there are stairs, lots of them. Oh Paris, I miss you already and can't wait to go back soon for a longer visit. We couldn't fault our visit at all.